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Jingdong book

英国服装纸样裁剪设计与技术：成衣与创意作品经典案例

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Jingdong book

英国服装纸样裁剪设计与技术：成衣与创意作品经典案例

Name: 英国服装纸样裁剪设计与技术：成衣与创意作品经典案例
Brand: Jingdong book
SKU: 3108005811
Price: 46.06 USD
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Editer Recommend

适合中国读者的引进版服装设计与纸样图书，原版图书深受国内外读者好评！
本书以从设计概念到完成纸样为脉络，探索了平面纸样设计的相关过程，提供了一系列切实可行的基本技术，结合基本面料知识及款式设计和号型体系的相关内容，分步骤解说如何设计各种纸样。主要内容包括准备工作、工具的选择和使用、基本纸样的设计与制作、纸样与坯布试样、基本纸样的变化、创意纸样设计、纸样与科技。本书内容翔实，实用易学，理论与实践相结合，可作为服装设计师和样板师的参考用书。

Content Description

本书以从设计概念到完成纸样为脉络，探索了平面纸样设计
的相关过程，提供了一系列切实可行的基本技术，结合基本面料
知识及款式设计和号型体系的相关内容，分步骤解说如何设计各
种纸样。主要内容包括准备工作、工具的选择和使用、基本纸样
的设计与制作、纸样与坯布试样、基本纸样的变化、创意纸样设
计、纸样与科技。

本书内容翔实，实用易学，理论与实践相结合，可作为服装
设计师和样板师的参考用书。

Author Description

丹尼克·春曼·洛（dennic chunman lo)（作者）：伦敦时装学院（London College of Fashion）创意样板课程主讲，有自己的服装品牌。
黎晶晶（译者）：北京服装学院教师，研究方向是服装结构与设计。

Catalogue

目录
第1章准备工作
简介
人台与测量
了解面料
绘制款式图
第2章工具的选择和使用
简介
第3章基本纸样的设计与制作
绘制基本纸样
衣身基本纸样
袖子基本纸样
裙子基本纸样
连衣裙基本纸样
裤子基本纸样
纸样裁剪经验数据参照
第4章纸样与坯布试样
折叠纸样
添加缝份、剪口和标记
运用样板师特有的专业语言
坯布试样
样衣的制作和调整
第5章基本纸样的变化
增加分割线
消除分割线
省道转移
将省道变化为分割线
普利特褶&塔克褶
增加体积量感
领子
开口和系合
将衣身基本纸样变化为西装基本纸样
第6章创意纸样设计
绳条编织服装
“T”型外套
斜裁筒裙
降落伞礼服
一片布造型：一块空白画布
居合道无尾燕礼服
第7章纸样与科技
选择纸样设计软件
从基本纸样开始
数字化技术
放码、排料和输出
对未来的展望
重点词汇
规格尺寸表
附录

Book Abstract

第1章
准备工作
英国服装纸样裁剪设计与技术
简介
普通的感觉认知是纸样设计的关键。当你尝试着做一件东西时，无论是枕套、靠垫、桌布、围裙，还是一个简单的填充拼布绗缝的电脑包，在开始之前你需要对四件事有所了解：
1. 测量。
2. 可能会用到的材料。
3. 制作过程中会用到的技术，如机缝、手缝、敷牵条、黏合、包缝、绱拉链和钉扣等。
4. 最后，也可能是最重要的一点，如果计划制作不止一件，你需要做好记号。
把上面几点变成服装工业生产中的术语就是：
1. 在开始前，你要得到工作所需的相关部位的测量尺寸和规格。
2. 你需要了解将要制作的服装所使用的面料，这将会直接影响你设计纸样的方法，而且也会对缝份的确定产生影响。
3. 一个好的样板师也需要对结构有一定的了解。纸样设计不仅是绘制图形，也涉及合理安排各个衣片的结构以使它们共同完成一件服装的造型。要想深入理解这一点就需要你同时掌握缝纫技术。
4. 如果不是只做单件服装，还需要在纸样上做一些记号。这首先需要完善图纸，通过绘制纸样、试制坯布样衣并加以调整来完成。最终的纸样可以在生产中被多次使用。
小袖×1对
大袖×1对
前中心线
前片×1对
前片挂面×1对
一般专业绘图纸主要用硬牛皮纸（上图）或交叉点状绘图纸（spot-and-cross paper）（下图），但在实际应用中你几乎可以使用任何类型的纸来完成纸样设计。例如，回收的旧报纸就可以绘制成经济又有趣的系列纸样（参见第11页），但前提是能够看清在新闻纸张上所做的纸样记号，而且纸张不易被撕损。
有经验的样板师可以根据一系列的测量尺寸，用划粉在面料上制图。这样做需要经验、信心、练习和毕生专心钻研这一技术。但是，这种方法实际上只适用于家庭作坊式的制衣或是单量单裁的客户定制，因为这些方式不存在大批量生产，也就不需要做相应的记号。在服装工业的大规模生产中必须使用纸样，这些纸样通常是使用不易磨损的白纸、软卡纸和卡纸制成。
纸样精确地记录了服装的形状。服装的每一部分都会被单独画出来：袖子、前片、后片、育克、领子等。应该将一整套纸样存好、记录或是按系列分类，这样在今后的生产中可以随时调用。
一般来说，一旦有了通过纸样来制作服装的需要接下来要做的就是建立基本纸样，以它为基础可以变化得到特殊的服装款式。在第3章中我们将会学习如何绘制基本纸样。在开始学习之前，我们要先深入探讨两个前提因素——测量尺寸和规格尺寸以及纸样设计中面料所产生的影响。实际上还有第三个因素是样板师在绘制基本纸样前所需要的，那就是服装纸样绘制的初步想法。本章最后一部分内容所涉及的绘制款式图，可以解决这一问题。
人台与测量
在开始绘制基本纸样之前，必须要考虑这件服装是为谁做的。这是一件：
1. 为自己做的服装吗？
2. 为特别的某个人做的服装吗？
3. 为了完成大学作业而做的服装吗？
4. 为一场服装秀做的服装吗？
5. 为工业化生产做的服装吗？
上述提到的各种不同的情况都需要选择不同的规格尺寸表和人台来满足合体性的需求。
个人规格尺寸表
当你给自己或特殊的某个人做衣服时，可以根据以下测量尺寸建立一个特殊的规格尺寸表：
胸围
腰围
臀围
大腿根围
内裤缝长
外裤缝长或腰围至脚踝围间距离
膝围
脚踝围
腰长
腰围至中臀围间距离
腰围至膝围间距离
背腰长
肩长（颈根外侧点至肩峰点的直线距离）
前肩宽
后肩宽
胸宽
背宽
颈围
侧颈点至胸围水平线（又称乳高）
前腰长
后身长
臂根围
臂长（肩峰点至茎凸点的距离）
上臂长（肩峰点至肘点的距离）
腕围
运用针对个人的尺寸可以保证定制服装的合体，这是采用其他任何规格尺寸所不能达到的。例如，有些人的臂长会比平均值长些，有些人的腰围则小些。裁缝、婚纱设计师、高级定制产业不仅会运用针对个人的测量尺寸，而且他们还会为尊贵的客人和经常光顾的客人定制专属人台。例如，赫迪雅曼（Hardy Amies）
为女王伊丽莎白二世（Queen ElizabethⅡ）和纪梵希（Givenchy）为奥黛丽?赫本（Audrey Hepbum）定制的特殊人台。
人台规格表
大部分学校使用欧洲12号人台作为标准人台尺寸，现在也有使用10号人台的，因为走秀的模特尺寸是更为苗条一点的理想人体。人们越来越多地选择10号人台，秀场上也把4号服装当作一个更好的选择，模特的臀围尺寸很少有超过88cm的，而她们的身高却至少有176cm，内衣模特和大尺寸模特例外。
厘米制规格表
号型
胸围
腰围
臀围
背长
（Courtesy Kennett & Lindsell 公司）以上数据来源于Kennett & Lindsell BSD人台。人台有不同的号型规格和造型，标准人台不可能使每一个生产商（或品牌）都满意，根本原因是他们拥有不同的客户群。例如，一个具体测量方法见本书第239~240页规格尺寸表。——出版者注
为日本市场生产女装的公司需要一个胸围尺寸略小一些的人台，而腰长则要比欧洲市场的略长一些；一个为美国市场生产新娘装和晚礼服的公司所需的人台臀围要大一些。这些公司都要求人台能够符合他们的消费群体的特殊体型特征。这一现象在服装工业中十分普遍。
服装学院规格尺寸表
大部分服装院校所使用的人台主要是用来给学生做设计尝试、作业以及毕业表演秀。通过测量人台可以直接得到一个规格尺寸表。但人台的造型可能与人的体型相距甚远。因此，许多服装院校根据工业生产和在真人身上试样得到一个规格尺寸表，以此来提醒学生纸样设计和缝制工艺的对象是真正的人体而非人台。

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Jingdong book

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